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1 change: 1 addition & 0 deletions printer_mods/README.md
Original file line number Diff line number Diff line change
Expand Up @@ -91,6 +91,7 @@ Printer mods for Voron 3D printers
| conqueror433 | [Voron Parts Logo](conqueror433/Voron_Parts_Logo) | Voron Parts Logo for your back panels, 3D Print or Laser Cut | V2.4 | 2024-01-08T16:38:25+00:00 |
| | [Voron V0.1 Parts Logo](conqueror433/Voron_V0.1_Parts_Logo) | Voron Parts Logo for your V0 deck panel | V0.2 | 2024-01-08T16:38:25+00:00 |
| consibonsi | [Y-Mod SW 9mm](consibonsi/Y-Mod_SW_9mm) | 9mm Y belt mod for SW | VSW | 2024-01-08T16:38:25+00:00 |
| crackzero_akl | [RapidoTZ Hotend Stealthburner](crackzero_akl/RapidoTZ_Hotend) | Construction Guide to transform Bambu Lab TZ 2.0 hotend to Rapido V2.0-like hotend | V0.2, V1.8, V2.4, VT, VSW | 2024-01-08T16:38:25+00:00 |
| csch0 | [SW Fan Mount No Tape](csch0/SW_FanMount_No_Tape) | 60x20 Fan Mount for SW without tape | VSW | 2024-01-08T16:38:25+00:00 |
| d3nny | [Filtered Power Plug with...](d3nny/mains_plug_panel_for_RND_165-00057) | Filtered Power Plug for RND 165-00057 and CAT6-Plug | V2.4 | 2024-01-08T16:38:25+00:00 |
| D4rkCelerity | [Raspberry Pi Zero Bracket](D4rkCelerity/Raspberry_Pi_Zero_Bracket) | Modified version of Trident RPi bracket to fit the smaller RPi Zero | V0.2, V1.8, V2.4, VT | 2024-01-08T16:38:25+00:00 |
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18 changes: 18 additions & 0 deletions printer_mods/crackzero_akl/RapidoTZ_Hotend/.metadata.yml
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cad:
- CAD/Silicon Mold/silicon_mold_outside.ipt
- CAD/Silicon Mold/silicon_mold_top.ipt
- CAD/Silicon Mold/silicon_mold_inside.ipt
description: Construction Guide for Bambu TZ Hotend modification to a Rapido V2.0-like hotend.
images:
- Images/0.jpg
- Images/1.jpg
mod_version: 1
printer_compatibility:
- V0.2, V1.8, V2.4, VT, VSW
stl:
- STL/optional_1x Voron_StealthBurner_RapidoTZ.stl
- STL/optional_1x RapidoTZ_bendinghelper.stl
- STL/1x RapidoTZ_silicon mold outside.stl
- STL/1x RapidoTZ_silicon mold top.stl
- STL/1x RapidoTZ_silicon mold inside.stl
title: RapidoTZ Hotend Mod
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83 changes: 83 additions & 0 deletions printer_mods/crackzero_akl/RapidoTZ_Hotend/README.md
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# RapidoTZ Hotend Construction Guide

This guide details the steps to build the RapidoTZ hotend, a modified Bambu Lab TZ 2.0 hotend with an extended melt zone using a Volcano nozzle and copper nuts, effectively transforming it into a Rapido V2.0-like hotend.
Facing [layer adhesion problems](https://youtu.be/PPyiACzsLWM?si=C5Oih0QtXfa8OBcW&t=306) and flow rate drop-off.
* The hotend costs about €12 in total.
* 1 hour to build the hotend mod.

## Video
[![Building Guided Video](https://img.youtube.com/vi/uBIikwfB0nQ/0.jpg)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBIikwfB0nQ)

## Materials Needed

* Bambu Lab TZ 2.0 Hotend with Heater and Thermistor ([Aliexpress](https://de.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-TZ-hotend.html))
* Additional 40-50W Heater (Bambu Lab compatible, [Aliexpress](https://de.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-bambulab-heater-50W.html), Sum: 100W to 120W heating )
* Volcano Nozzle
* Two M6 Copper Nuts (alternative Steel Nuts, thx to [CNC Kitchen](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Soz8z-vAIw))
* High Temperature Silicone (up to 450°C, e.g., [TFC-Troll-Factory-Silikon-Kautschuk-Typ-3](https://trollfactory.de/Produkte/Silikon-Kautschuk/Verarbeitungszeit/sehr-schnell-5-Min/TFC4021/TFC-Troll-Factory-Silikon-Kautschuk-Typ-3-HB-Zinnguss-hitzebestaendig-RTV-1-1-Groesse-1kg-2x500g))
* Two M3 Screws (6mm length for Silicon Sock Mold)
* Syringe 20 ml
* [PETG Printed Silicone Sock Mold](https://github.com/LernFabrik/RapidoTZ-Hotend-Mod/tree/main/stl)
* [Voron Stealthburner Bambu Printhead Volcano Mod](https://github.com/LernFabrik/RapidoTZ-Hotend-Mod/tree/main/stl): Hotend Front
* [Voron Stealthburner Bambu Printhead](https://www.printables.com/model/322091-voron-stealthburner-printhead-for-bambu-x1cx1-hote): Hotend Insert, Back

## Tools

* Silicone Sock Mold (3D printed, PETG)
* File
* Cutter Knife
* Vise (optional)
* Two Small Pliers
* Thin Screwdriver
* Allen Key for M3 Screws
* Multimeter

## Construction Steps

1. **Silicone Sock Mold Assembly:**
* Assemble the inner and outer mold parts using the M3 screws.
* Secure the lid, ensuring the inner part stays in place and doesn't rotate.
* Mix the silicone, fill the syringe, and inject it into the mold.
* Allow the silicone to cure completely.

2. **Hotend Preparation:**
* Secure the TZ 2.0 hotend in a vise.
* File the side opposite the original heater plate to create a flat surface for the second heater.

3. **Heater/Sensor Clip Modification:**
* Carefully bend open the existing heater and temperature sensor clip at the open end, creating a U shape.
* Carefully bend the U shape to a O shape, by bending the small Stegs of the clip.

4. **Hotend Assembly:**
* Assemble the hotend with the heater plates positioned opposite each other and the temperature sensor in between.

5. **Silicone Sock Removal:**
* Remove all screws and the lid from the silicone mold.
* Use an Allen key to push out the inner mold from below.
* Carefully detach the silicone sock from the mold edges using a screwdriver or Allen key.

6. **Silicone Sock Modification:**
* Cut a 5x5mm opening on the top of the silicone sock for the wires.
* Cut the sides of the sock, so that the sock can slide over the heatbreak.

7. **Silicone Sock Installation:**
* Carefully slide the silicone sock over the assembled hotend.
* Ensure the clip does not slide upwards, which could cause a short circuit.

8. **Electrical and Mechanical Installation:**
* Connect the two heater plates in parallel.
* Install the modified hotend into the printer's toolhead.
* Use a multimeter to check for short circuits in all wiring.

9. **Klipper Configuration:**
* Configure Klipper settings, including Z-probe offset.
* Remember to adjust the Z-probe position.
* Perform a PID tune of the hotend.
* Enjoy printing!



## Disclaimer

* This modification involves working with high temperatures and electrical components. Proceed with caution.
* The creator of this guide is not responsible for any damage or injury resulting from following these instructions.
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