Update Voron 2 SKR v1.4/Turbo wiring diagram, This PR will not work properly without PR #262

_sass/color_schemes/voron-dark.scss

@@ -17,6 +17,12 @@ $voron-red-70: #99000a;
 $voron-red-80: #dd0007;
 $voron-link-purple: #661aff;
 
+//GAcolors
+$neon-green-600: #00ff01;
+$blue-600: #32a3e5;
+$orange-600: #ff7a00;
+$purple-650: #b888e8;
+
 //
 // Body Elements
 //
@@ -38,3 +44,31 @@ $code-background-color: $grey-dk-250;
 $search-background-color: $grey-dk-250;
 $table-background-color: $grey-dk-250;
 $feedback-color: darken($sidebar-color, 3%);
+
+.color-blind-red { color: $red-300; }
+.color-blind-green { color: $neon-green-600; }
+.color-blind-yellow { color: $yellow-200; }
+.color-blind-blue {color: $blue-600; }
+.color-blind-orange {color: $orange-600; }
+.color-blind-red-red {color: red; }
+.color-blind-grey-dk-100 { color: $grey-dk-000; }
+.color-blind-purple { color: $purple-650; }
+
+// for double underlines
+.underline-double-trouble {
+    background-image: linear-gradient(to bottom, red 33%, transparent 33%, transparent 66%, red 66%, red);
+    background-position: 0 1.03em;
+    background-repeat: repeat-x;
+    background-size: 2px 6px;
+  }
+
+//font sizes
+.fs_percent_110 { font-size: 110%; }
+
+a:link {
+    font-weight: 700;
+}
+
+input[type=text] {
+  color: $grey-lt-300;
+}

build/electrical/index.md

@@ -4,6 +4,7 @@ title: Electrical Wiring
 parent: The Build
 has_children: true
 nav_order: 2
+has_toc: false
 ---
 
 # Electrical Wiring
@@ -42,11 +43,11 @@ For larger wires, such as heater cartridge wiring, heatshrink tubing is helpful.
 
 ## Cables
 
-Silicone wiring has been specified because it has a high strand count which means it has higher fatigue life. Silicone insulation withstands heat and is more flexible which is good in high movement applications. It is less prone to snagging on other wires or the walls inside the cable chain. Check your cable loom before installing the chains. 
+Silicone wiring has been specified because it has a high strand count which means it has higher fatigue life. Silicone insulation withstands heat and is more flexible which is good in high movement applications. It is less prone to snagging on other wires or the walls inside the cable chain. Check your cable loom before installing the chains.
 
 PTFE or Heluflon wires are a premium option as they have a thinner insulation and a lower friction coefficient, which increases bending capabilities and decreases wear. But these advantages are most useful in printers that use cable chains. For printers with an umbilical cord cabling setup (V0 Toolhead, Legacy), they might be overkill. Automation cable such as IGUS can be used, but the minimum bend radius of the cable needs to be verified as the typical bend radius for Voron cable chains is very small.
 
-See the cable lengths and count section for specific counts. Do not downsize the hot end heater wires, they are oversized for safety reasons. 
+See the cable lengths and count section for specific counts. Do not downsize the hot end heater wires, they are oversized for safety reasons.
 
 You may add additional wires to your cable chains as a replacement in case of wire breaks. However, these cables will be heated/cooled and moved around as much as your live cables and may be broken already when you need them! So may be better to keep extra wires as spares outside of the printer.
 
@@ -60,18 +61,17 @@ There is no standard either for the color of wire on stepper motors, nor for the
 There are 3 basic options for identifying windings:
 1) Check the documentation.  Many motors come with a card which tells you what wire colors are on the same winding.  If there's no card, the manufacturer's website may have something.
 2) Use a multimeter: put your meter in "continuity" mode.  Pick one wire, and then find any other wire that shows continuity with it.  Those two wires are on the same winding. By process of elimination, it should be safe to assume the other two represent the other winding.
-3) If you don't have a meter available, you can twist 2 wires together, and then try to spin the shaft of the motor.  If the wires are on the same winding, it will become noticably harder to spin the shaft.
+3) If you don't have a meter available, you can twist 2 wires together, and then try to spin the shaft of the motor.  If the wires are on the same winding, it will become noticeably harder to spin the shaft.
 
 ### Symptoms of miswired motors
 
 Traditionally, trying to move a stepper that's miswired, has either resulted in nothing happening, or a nasty buzzing sound.  However, recent versions of klipper will generally detect the miswiring, and simply shutdown.  If, during your motor checks, klipper immediately shuts down: check your logs.  If there is a wiring issue with your stepper, it will report something like
 
 ```
 TMC 'stepper_y' reports DRV_STATUS: 001900d0 s2vsa=1(LowSideShort_A!) ola=1(OpenLoad_A!) olb=1(OpenLoad_B!) CS_ACTUAL=25
-Transition to shutdown state: TMC 'stepper_y' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 001900d0 s2vsa=1(LowSideShort_A!) ola=1(OpenLoad_A!) 
+Transition to shutdown state: TMC 'stepper_y' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 001900d0 s2vsa=1(LowSideShort_A!) ola=1(OpenLoad_A!)
 ```
 
-
 ## DC Power Supply Wiring
 Many of the latest generation of Voron printers spec the use of two or more independent power supplies.  That can include 24V, 5V, and 12V power supplies depending on configuration.
 
@@ -108,13 +108,13 @@ Different controller boards use different terminal types.  The RAMPS boards use
 
 For wiring the stepper motors, keep the same wire color sequence that your stepper motors came with and use that same sequence for all stepper motors in the printer.  If the BOM spec motors from StepperOnline are used, the wires should be in the color order as shown in the wiring diagrams.
 
-If the purchased steppers do not match the color order in the documentation, there is no need to rewire just to change colors.  There is not a "standard" wire color order for these parts. If the builder decides to reterminate to change connector types or whatever, be sure to use the same order as before. The spec motors also come with a datasheet or card so you can double check the work. One can also use a multimeter to find wire pairs in the motor by measuring continuity between leads. Each lead should have continuity to the other lead in its pair.
+If the purchased steppers do not match the color order in the documentation, there is no need to rewire just to change colors.  There is not a "standard" wire color order for these parts. If the builder decides to re-terminate to change connector types or whatever, be sure to use the same order as before. The spec motors also come with a datasheet or card so you can double-check the work. One can also use a multimeter to find wire pairs in the motor by measuring continuity between leads. Each lead should have continuity to the other lead in its pair.
 
-**Important:** If the motors are found later on to be going the wrong direction, repinning the connectors is _not_ required.  The direction can be inverted in the software configuration later.
+**Important:** If the motors are found later on to be going the wrong direction, re-pinning the connectors is _not_ required.  The direction can be inverted in the software configuration later.
 
 ### Inductive Probe Wiring (V1, Trident, V2, Switchwire)
 
-The BOM spec PL-08N inductive probe (and the alterate Omron probe) that is used for Bed Mesh, Z Tilt Adjust (V1/Legacy) or Quad Gantry Leveling (V2) needs to be powered with 12-24V, not the typical 5V that is used for end stop switches.  This is critical because if powered with 5V the sense distance is reduced enough to cause a nozzle crash.
+The BOM spec PL-08N inductive probe (and the alternate Omron probe) that is used for Bed Mesh, Z Tilt Adjust (V1/Legacy) or Quad Gantry Leveling (V2) needs to be powered with 12-24V, not the typical 5V that is used for end stop switches.  This is critical because if powered with 5V the sense distance is reduced enough to cause a nozzle crash.
 
 If not closely following the BOM spec, ensure that the inductive probe purchased is a normally closed (NC) version rather than normally open (NO).  The configuration cannot be changed as that is built specifically from the factory.  A normally open (NO) probe may cause crashes if a wire breaks.
 
@@ -130,11 +130,11 @@ Below is a circuit diagram with more details.
 
 ### Endstop Wiring
 
-Endstops can be wired one of two ways: normally closed (NC) or normally open (NO).  For normally closed configurations, the endstop switch allows current to flow through when not triggered.  For normally open configurations, the endstop switch only allows current to flow through whe triggered.
+Endstops can be wired one of two ways: normally closed (NC) or normally open (NO).  For normally closed configurations, the endstop switch allows current to flow through when not triggered.  For normally open configurations, the endstop switch only allows current to flow through when triggered.
 
 While both of these configurations will work fine in an ideal world, normally closed (NC) configurations are more robust.  If a wire breaks or a terminal becomes disconnected, the printer will think the endstop has triggered and will stop movement before the toolhead crashes into the bed or frame. Note that you should always still observe the homing routine - an intermittent break in an X or Y wire can still result in a crash as the nozzle will drop to where it thinks the Z endstop is and instead hit the bed (not applicable to V0 or Switchwire).
 
-Wiring mechanical endstop switches for NC operation is easy as the BOM spec switches have 3 pins exposed.  With a multimeter, probe each combination of the three pins until a pair is found that has continuity (<10 ohms resistance) when the switch is not triggered (normal state), but does not have continuity (>10M ohms resistance) when the switch is triggered (depressed).  Typically the outer two pins are the NC pins, but should be verified prior to installation.
+Wiring mechanical endstop switches for NC operation is easy as the BOM spec switches have 3 pins exposed.  With a multimeter, probe each combination of the three pins until a pair is found that has continuity (<10 ohms resistance) when the switch is not triggered (normal state), but does not have continuity (>10M ohms resistance) when the switch is triggered (depressed).  Typically, the outer two pins are the NC pins, but should be verified prior to installation.
 
 ![](./images/endstop_switch_wiring.png)
 
@@ -154,18 +154,18 @@ Follow the links to the wiring configuration guides specific to your printer and
 * [V0.1 - SKR Pico](./v0_skr_pico_wiring.md)
 
 ### Voron 1
-* [V1 - SKR 1.3](./v1_skr13_wiring.md)
-* [V1 - SKR 1.4](./v1_skr14_wiring.md)
+* [V1 - SKR V1.3](./v1_skr13_wiring.md)
+* [V1 - SKR V1.4](./v1_skr14_wiring.md)
 
 ### Trident
 * [Trident - BigTreeTech Octopus](./v2_octopus_wiring.md)
 * [Trident - MKS Makerbase Monster8](./v2_monster8_wiring.md)
 
 ### Voron 2
-* [V2 - SKR 1.3](./v2_skr13_wiring.md)
-* [V2 - SKR 1.4](./v2_skr14_wiring.md)
+* [V2 - SKR V1.3](./v2_skr13_wiring.md)
+* [V2 - SKR V1.4](./v2_skr14_uart_wiring.md)
 * [V2 - FLYboard FLYF407ZG](./v2_flyf407zg_wiring.md)
-* [V2 - Fysetc Spider v1.1](./v2_spider_wiring.md)
+* [V2 - Fysetc Spider V1.1](./v2_spider_wiring.md)
 * [V2 - BigTreeTech Octopus](./v2_octopus_wiring.md)
 * [V2 - MKS Makerbase Monster8](./v2_monster8_wiring.md)
 

build/electrical/skrv14_RaspberryPi.md

@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
+---
+nav_exclude: true
+---
+# Raspberry Pi
+
+## Connection Using Separate Power Supply
+* Since the BTT SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo board does not produce enough amps to power the Raspberry Pi directly, the Raspberry Pi can be powered by an independent power supply.
+* Use at least 24awg wire for V+ and GND connections to the Pi's power supply
+* Tie all the DC 0V (typically labelled V-) lines for all the DC power supplies together to ensure that all power supplies have the same voltage reference.
+* The below diagram, shows the connections for both the "Separate Power Supply" connections and "UART serial" connections.  If "Separate Power Supply" connection is wanted and "UART serial" connection is not wanted, then only use the 5V and GND connections from the diagram below (i.e. the TX and RX lines are not needed).
+
+###### ![](./images/SKRV1.4T_to_Pi_UART.png) {#SKRV1.4T_to_Pi_UART}
+
+## Control
+
+* Voron Design recommends using USB to control the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo, which simply requires connecting a USB-A to USB-A type B cable between the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo and Pi.
+* The option also exists to use a UART connection from the Pi header, in place of the USB.  If you prefer this option, please see the wiring diagram located above in [Connection Using Separate Power Supply](#connection-using-separate-power-supply) and use the instructions below on the Raspberry Pi.  You will want to perform the instructions below **after Mailsail/Fluidd is installed on the Raspberry Pi.**
+
+###### ![](./images/ConnectPitoMCU-Instructions.png) {#ConnectPitoOctopusPro-Instructions_10}

build/electrical/skrv14_Resources.md

@@ -0,0 +1,26 @@
+---
+nav_exclude: true
+---
+## Color PIN Diagram for SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo
+
+For reference, here is the Color PIN diagram for the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo
+
+###### ![](./images/SKRV1.4_TURBO_Colored_PIN_Diagram.jpg) {#SKRV1.4_TURBO_Colored_PIN_Diagram}
+
+* If you want to open the above diagram, in a new tab of your web browser, and have the ability to zoom and download the diagram in PDF format then [click here](./images/SKRV1.4_TURBO_Colored_PIN_Diagram.pdf){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}
+
+* If you want to open the above diagram, in a new tab of your web browser, and have the ability to zoom and download the diagram in JPG format then [click here](./images/SKRV1.4_TURBO_Colored_PIN_Diagram.jpg){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}
+
+## Original SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo Pinout
+
+For reference, here is the original pinout of the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo
+
+* Note: If you see a conflict between the original pinout and any other source, please refer back to the [BigTreeTech SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo schematic diagram](<./images/BTT SKR V1.4-SCH.pdf>){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}
+
+###### ![](./images/SKR-V1.4-pinout.jpg) {#original-SKR-V1.4-pinout}
+
+* If you want to open the above diagram, in a new tab of your web browser, and have the ability to zoom and download the diagram in PDF format then [click here](<./images/BTT SKR V1.4PIN.pdf>){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}
+
+## The BTT's GitHub Repo for the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo board
+
+* BTT's documentation for SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo board is [located here](https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/tree/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}

build/electrical/skrv14init_prep_tmc_drvs_uart.md

@@ -0,0 +1,46 @@
+---
+nav_exclude: true
+---
+# Preparation of TMC2209 and TMC2226 UART Stepper Motor Drivers
+
+* __<span class="underline-double-trouble color-blind-red">IMPORTANT:</span>__  The V2 printer does not use sensorless homing.  **If using the TMC2209 or TMC2226 stepper motor drivers with the SKR V1.4/Turbo, there are three methods to disable sensorless homing.**
+
+1. Cut off the DIAG pin from the TMC2209 or TMC2226.
+2. Use stackable header pins to ensure the DIAG pin does not make an electrical connection to the SKR board.
+3. Desolder the DIAG pin from the stepper motor driver step stick.
+
+## Disable Sensorless Homing - Method #1 - Cut Off the DIAG pin:
+
+* **Use a small pair of wire cutters and remove the pin marked in <span class="color-blind-purple">PURPLE</span> (DIAG PIN) from the TMC2209 or TMC2226 stepper motor driver step stick**
+
+###### ![](./images/tmc2209-pin-removal.png) {#tmc2209-pin-removal_uart_triskr-expmot}
+
+## Disable Sensorless Homing - Method #2 - Use Stackable Header pins:
+
+* By not adding the stackable header pin under the DIAG PIN location, the DIAG PIN will not make an electrical connection to the board. The added benefit with stackable header pins is the driver socket will also have more room for air flow to help with dissipation of heat. See the diagram below:
+
+###### ![](./images/disable_sensor-less_homing_TMC2209_TMC2226.jpg) {#disable_sensor-less_homing_uart_triskr-expmot}
+
+* Here is the URL from the above diagram.  You can purchase the [Stackable Header PINS from Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Connector-Assortment-Stackable-Breakaway/dp/B07CWSXY7P){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}.
+
+## Disable Sensorless Homing - Method #3 - Desolder the DIAG pin:
+
+*  **Desolder the pin, marked in purple (DIAG PIN), from the TMC2209 or TMC2226 stepper motor driver step stick** at the location shown [here](#tmc2209-pin-removal_uart_triskr-expmot)
+
+* If you need help with desoldering, please [consult this guide](https://www.instructables.com/The-Ultimate-Guide-to-Desoldering/){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}
+
+## Further Reading
+
+* [Further information about the TMC2209/TMC2226 DIAG PIN problem](https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-Stepper-Motor-Driver/blob/master/TMC2209/V1.2/TMC2209%20problems%20solving.pdf){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}.  The TMC2226 stepper motor driver's DIAG pin is also used for "output only". Therefore, it will have the same issue as the TMC2209.  Please see [page 9 in the TMC2226 datasheet](https://www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/ICs_Documents/TMC2226_Datasheet_V106.pdf#page=9){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}
+
+## Other Considerations when using TMC2209, or TMC2226 (TMCxxxx drivers with StallGuard)
+
+* __<span class="underline-double-trouble color-blind-red">IMPORTANT:</span>__  If you are using a TMC2209 or TMC2226 stepper motor driver for the **<span class="color-blind-red">extruder motor</span> and you want to use a filament run out sensor**, please do one of the following:
+
+1.  Cut off the DIAG pin for the **stepper motor driver step stick** in the **extruder** driver socket (E0 or E1 on the SKR board); [The location of the DIAG pin](#tmc2209-pin-removal_uart_triskr-expmot) or
+
+2.  Use stackable header pins and ensure the **DIAG pin does not get plugged into the SKR board's** extruder driver socket location (E0 or E1 on the SKR board); [The location of the DIAG pin](#disable_sensor-less_homing_uart_triskr-expmot) or
+
+3. Desolder the DIAG pin from the extruder driver step stick [The location of the DIAG pin](#tmc2209-pin-removal_uart_triskr-expmot);
+
+* **The DIAG PIN must be disconnected from the SKR board on the <span class="color-blind-red">extruder driver</span> step stick for the filament run out sensor to work properly**, if you are using a TMC2209 or TMC2226.