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In the late 19th century, the publishing couple [Frieda](https://uclab.fh-potsdam.de/refa-catalog/api/resources/18762) (1840-1896) and [Franz von Lipperheide](https://uclab.fh-potsdam.de/refa-catalog/api/resources/9364) (1838-1906) compiled sources on the history and meaning of clothing and thus founded the *[Lipperheide Costume Library](https://uclab.fh-potsdam.de/refa-catalog/api/resources/18717)*. The classifications of *fashion*, *costume (dt. Kostüm)* and *regional dress (dt. Tracht)* used by them are accordingly shaped by the understanding of the time and differ from today's terminology. Thus, the term *costume research* has also changed in consequence and is now called *dress research*, *fashion research* or *vestimentary research*. Depending on the research discipline, the terms are used differently and describe a methodological approach.[^Cf. de Günther 2022, pp. 10-14, Kleiderwechsel 2002, pp. 8-13, Mentges 2015, p. 76, Merseburger 2016, p. 30 and Warschaw 2017.]
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## Fashion
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The etymology of the word *fashion* is still subject to different interpretations today: The derivation from the Latin *Modus*, which changed into *mode* in the French language, is disputed. It is possible that two forms of usage prevailed at the end of the 16th century: the masculine grammatical form *mode* in the sense of moderation, rule and modus, and the grammatically feminine form of *mode*, which stood for contemporary clothing and lifestyle. In its further dissemination in Germany and Italy, it initially finds application in the *Alamodische Bilderbogen*, a courtly entertainment literature that became widespread in Germany after the Thirty Years' War. It is also mentioned around 1620 with the meaning "the custom and dress originating in France". This longing for the fashionable was caricatured in *[Alamodische Blätter](https://uclab.fh-potsdam.de/refa-catalog/api/resources/48313)*[^Cf. Ridikül! 2003, Wolter 2002 and Wolter 2012.]. Subsequently, the word *fashion* became naturalised as the concept of the new and of instantaneous taste.
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The etymology of the word *fashion* is still subject to different interpretations today: The derivation from the Latin *Modus*, which changed into *mode* in the French language, is disputed. It is possible that two forms of usage prevailed at the end of the 16th century: the masculine grammatical form *mode* in the sense of moderation, rule and modus, and the grammatically feminine form of *mode*, which stood for contemporary clothing and lifestyle. In its further dissemination in Germany and Italy, it initially finds application in the *Alamodische Bilderbogen*, a courtly entertainment literature that became widespread in Germany after the Thirty Years' War. It is also mentioned around 1620 with the meaning "the custom and dress originating in France". This longing for the fashionable was caricatured in [Alamodische Blätter](https://uclab.fh-potsdam.de/refa-catalog/api/resources/48313) [^Cf. Ridikül! 2003, Wolter 2002 and Wolter 2012.]. Subsequently, the word *fashion* became naturalised as the concept of the new and of instantaneous taste.
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## Regional dress
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The dictionary by Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm describes the meaning of *[regional costume](http://www.woerterbuchnetz.de/DWB?lemma=tracht)* (dt. Tracht) as "to wear or to be worn". The term regional costume (*Tracht*) was first used in 1497 to describe that which is worn on the body and also the way in which it is worn. The term denotes the clothing of the urban and rural population, as well as the garment worn at work as well as the garments in different professions.[^Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm's definition is far-reaching: it also stands for clerical clothing and distinguishes itself from the term “uniform”, a loan word which has been attested since 1746. Tracht also denotes the distinctive clothing of the different classes. Similarly, Tracht stands for mask and masquerade costume. Finally, the dictionary entry notes that Tracht and Fashion are used synonymously. The entry distinguishes between “die kleidungsart allgemein ohne das Moment des zeitgemäszen“ and “zeitgemäsze kleidungsart, Mode, also tracht heiszt die dem frauenzimmer nach einer jedem Landesart gewöhnliche und übliche mode sich einkleiden und anzuputzt” - “the type of dress in general without the moment of the contemporary” and the “contemporary mode of dress, fashion, cf. tracht means the usual and customary fashion for women to dress according to each national style”. In a figurative sense, it also denotes the attitude, the habitus.]
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