chore(code-health): eliminate React Doctor exceptions from doctor.config.ts

[masch]

Pre-flight Checks

• I have searched existing issues and this is not a duplicate
• I understand this issue needs status:approved before a PR can be opened

Problem Description

apps/mobile/doctor.config.ts currently has ~40 rule exceptions across 4 files — the core screens of the app:

• experiences.tsx
• explore.tsx
• track-detail-view.tsx
• track-map.tsx

These aren't false positives. They're documented technical debt masking 5 structural anti-patterns:

Exempted Rule	What It Masks
set-state-in-effect	Data fetching lives in useEffect instead of a custom hook
prefer-useReducer	Multiple independent useState calls that should be a reducer
no-initialize-state	State initialized from props without key sync
no-giant-component	These screens are too large
react-compiler	React Compiler can't optimize these components

Proposed Solution

Refactor each screen to eliminate the exceptions systematically:

1. Extract data fetching — Move useEffect fetch patterns into a custom hook (e.g., useExperiences, useTrack). This kills set-state-in-effect.
2. Group state into reducers — Replace multiple useState combos with useReducer. This kills prefer-useReducer and no-initialize-state.
3. Split giant components — Break each screen into smaller, focused sub-components. This kills no-giant-component.
4. React Compiler auto-fixes — Steps 1-2-3 naturally unblock the compiler.

Affected Area

Code quality / linting

Alternatives Considered

Keeping the exceptions indefinitely — but they're a growing source of false negatives and block React Compiler adoption.

Additional Context

File with all exceptions: apps/mobile/doctor.config.ts

The react-compiler exception is partially justified by try/finally in async data functions (a known compiler limitation), but the other 3 rules have no technical blocker — they need refactoring.